Tag Archive: Prusa

So after nearly a year of not being used due to magic smoke and melted parts, my Ooznest Prusa I3 is alive again and reproducing.

After a problem with a tensioner braking and a real of ABS refusing to stick, I have now started printing new part for both the printer and my own custom Pi3 printer.

I have a list of parts I need to print for the printer and there is something else I should be printing to repair something in the house but I can’t remember what.

I’m sure it will come to me at some point.


Printer broke again!

Smheaterbroke1 Smheaterbroke2

Yup hot end cables snagged on the object being printed and snapped the heater.

After all the hassle and grief the printer is now back up and running with the new hot end and 0.3mm nozzle.

Still a lot to learn concerning the way the setting work but at least I can print again.

Well after a week where I nearly smashed it, the printer is up and running in a fashion. I haven’t calibrated the extruder steps as I’m having issue with the Bulldog lite Clicking when pushing filament through.

Thank you to the community to have given there help and support and to Ryan @ Ooznest for giving technical support and preventing me from braking it.

I may give up on converting this to duel and may use the parts instead to build a second.

Anyone know if I will have issues using the Arduino Mega 2560 adk instead of the mega 2560 as the heart of the new printer?

I give up, I quit, I’ve had enough now with this piece of junk.
All I wanted to do was swap to a smaller nozzel for detail work and add a second hot end!
What was my reward, £500 paperweight!
I had enough!

Hotend mount remix.

for a while now I have been looking at ideas for fitting a second Bulldog lite on my ooznest Prusa i3 but the wait of two extruders was bothering me. After a little chat I have decided to mount the bulldog lite’s (now have 2 off) on the frame and use a Bowden setup (is that the correct name?)

Below is my remixed hotend adjusted to accept two hexagon hotends with the push fittings fitted through the holes at the top.


Duel Hexagon Hotend mount

To use this you need to remove the Bulldog and mount from the X-Carriage, remove the hot end from the bulldog lite and remove the brass insert from the hotend
Fit the rear section (shown in the above image) push in the hot ends, screw front section on over the top ends,
Screw the push fittings into the hotends via the top holes (some filing may be needed to the this section before the front piece is fitted.
Add the feed tube to the push fitting and push down the blue ring,
Remove the brass inserts from the bulldog lites and insert push fitting to both the feed and exit side.
Drill frame to mount the Bulldogs and fix.
Trim feed tube to fit into the bulldogs and fit into the push fittings.

Once this is done you will need to configure the firmware which I haven’t worked out yet.

Bulldog lite +Hexagon AO hotend

Bulldog lite +Hexagon AO hotend

Thanks to my supplier ooznest my second Bulldog lite extruder and the next gen Hexagon AO hot end arrived superfast. While looking through the firmware setting to enable the second extruder and hot end I would have to say that I am confused as hell.

There ar so many setting and options that I am literally lost. I am amazed that the Marlin firmware hackers are able to fit so much into the code that it will take me ages to understand everything and I’m yet to fix the +1mm overscale calibration issue i have.

Keep on reading and I will keep on learning, just after I go and fix the leak in the shower!

Print accuracy test

So I have been playing with this for a while now and only just got around to the 20mm cube test after several unsuccessful prints due to rafts pealing off the kapton tape or layers delaminating and curving.
I am wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that I increased my print speed from 40 to 70mm per second.

Not sure if it’s the end stop dying again but no matter what Z offset I use, the hot end is crashing into the glass plate and ripping the tape. I will order a new end stop and see if that solves things but have a feeling that it’s not going to help.


In the image above is two prints of the same object. The object is a case for the Xmos Startkit.
Apart from the obvious cleanup to the one of the left, the one on the right (that was printed first) came out mirrored!
The only difference to them was that I decreased the raft size, increased wall thickness and decreased infill.
For some reason the printer didn’t like it and printed it mirrored!
After a full reset of cura and re export of G-code.